Critics vs chefs have slugged it out since the caveman times. The greats like AA Gill and Fay Machler fought publicly with Gordon Ramsay, Tom Sellers and many more. As harsh as Gill could be, he was always greatly respected by most in the industry, in spite of this. By way of their entertainment value and clout, critics can get with proportionally more. As in life the funnier you are the more you will be forgiven. That’s just how it works.
Critics will always exist to serve consumers and keep restaurants on their toes but something felt off key about Sudi Piggot’s review of top restaurants ‘make aways’ in the Daily Mail.
Restaurants are notoriously difficult to make work. Over 90% close down in the first year. Some deserve to and others don’t. But this Darwin-esque landscape has intensified during the pandemic. Restaurants deserve more support and we can all play our part. In the current era of ‘eat out to help out‘ scathing reviews are unnecessary and cruel. Suppliers and workers jobs are already on the edge. So why not leave the review out completely if you honestly didn’t enjoy it? As Tommy says:
“Roots, our restaurant in York, is a 100-cover restaurant. We’re down to 50 covers there.
So starting this third busines has allowed us to move an awful lot of our staff we would have struggled to employ into a new business, and keep everybody in jobs, which has been massive.’
But thankfully Tommy is going to be just find as the public response to this has shown. Made in Oldstead is one of England’s finest restaurants. A friend of mine has been to over 100 starred restaurants and tried many of the ‘make-aways’ recently. He knows ALOT about good food. I texted him to find out what he thought of Made in Oldstead’s ‘make-away’.